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Gastro Obscura
Spiritus Pizza
Provincetown's night owls flock to this 52-year-old pizza joint.
When the sun sets on Provincetown, Massachusetts, roving visitors fill the streets, wandering to and from dive bars, live music venues, nightclubs, seaside eateries, drag shows, and beyond. But as the wee hours approach, almost every restaurant shutters. That is, every restaurant except for Spiritus Pizza.
In 1970, this pie-slinging emporium was but a twinkle in young John “Jingles” Yingling’s eye. After visiting his sister in Provincetown, John clocked a comprehensive lack of pizza in town. He’d been running a successful pizza truck in Wildwood, New Jersey, but P-town had more permanent plans for his skills.
The following year, John and his new business partner opened a spot on the now-bustling Commercial Street, where slices served on napkins sold for 25 cents. In 1976, the establishment added an ice cream arm. They coined the slogan “there’s no business like dough business.” John started a family in the 1980s, paving the way for a family business. The shop remains owned and operated by the Yinglings today.
With a local monopoly on the late-night feeding frenzy, Spiritus doesn’t need to be delicious to be dominant. And yet, they crank out an undeniably tasty slice. The basic components are simple and satisfying: thin crust with a toasty crunch gives way to oregano-heavy sauce topped in a delicate layer of cheese. Those who prefer an over-the-top chaotic slice can get their fix, too, as there’s no limit to the custom pies that Spiritus lets inspired patrons build.
Unlike many a midnight munchies spot, Spiritus isn’t simply a weekend privilege—they’re open until 2 a.m. every single night of the week. Not a pizza person? Firstly, what? Secondly, fret not. Ice cream is also available in abundance. Lactose intolerant? There’s coffee, too!
Know Before You Go
It's cash only, so come prepared.
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